Cosmetics through History

The Cosmetics have been in use since time immemorial across diverse cultures. Not only they serve to enhance natural beauty, but also provide a means of self-expression. From Cleopatra to today’ Hollywood actresses, the cosmetics have played an integral role in women's daily beauty regimes. 

The fashion for cosmetics first started in Ancient Egypt and was later actively embraced by the Romans. Subsequently, cosmetics and their use transcended all classes. However, nail colour was exclusively the preserve of aristocrats. In China, this trend even became enshrined in law with transgressors daring to wear nail colour, were summarily executed in public. Quite literally, people died for fashion. 

As cosmetics grew in popularity, women began to become more extravagant in their use of cosmetics. Imported beauty products from as far away as China, Germany and Gaul were lavishly used by women in their quest for beauty. Excessive use of these costly products ultimately incited public controversy leading to the introduction of the Lex Oppia Law of 189 BC. The law curbed the use of cosmetics and over-adornment of women generally in public places Prior to the law's introduction, women had been becoming ever more competitive in keeping up appearances, even gambling away huge fortunes on the costly cosmetics. 

In the following interim period between the Roman era and the middle ages, use of cosmetics disappeared. The Dark Ages, as this era was termed saw only very limited use of make-up amongst restricted sectors of the public. An edict issued by the Church, denouncing all those wearing cosmetics as heathens and devil-worshippers, ensured that cosmetics suffered a rapid loss in popularity amongst the public. Overwhelmingly, the use of cosmetics during this era was associated with women of ill repute and actors for whom society had scant regard. 

Only much later, in the Elizabethan Era, did cosmetics become popular once again. Lead preparations were particularly favoured as women sought to lighten their skin. Mercury compounds, such as mercury sulphide, were applied to the lips for colour. 

After a brief resurgence in popularity, cosmetics only became popular again during the reign of another long-reigning monarch, Queen Victoria (1837-1901). As in the Elizabethan era, a pallid complexion was favoured over a tanned look. Mercifully, the pale look was attained through applying concoctions of lemon juice and vinegar as opposed to the more lethal lead preparations of the past. Overt applications of make-up were frowned upon, with lipstick and rouge being studiously avoided. Purchase of cosmetics was a somewhat furtive affair, with clients obtaining products from local chemists with concealed back door entrances. 

Only with the establishment of a cosmetic counter (London - 1909) where women could publicly try out cosmetics before purchase, buying and wearing of cosmetics gained acceptability. Today the sheer diversity of cosmetics products and the freedom to apply them sparingly or liberally is largely due the burgeoning of the cosmetics industry, spearheaded in the UK by Gordon Selfridge and the influence of Hollywood in the 1920s.