Cosmetics through History

The Cosmetics have been in use since time immemorial across diverse cultures. Not only they serve to enhance natural beauty, but also provide a means of self-expression. From Cleopatra to today’ Hollywood actresses, the cosmetics have played an integral role in women's daily beauty regimes. 

The fashion for cosmetics first started in Ancient Egypt and was later actively embraced by the Romans. Subsequently, cosmetics and their use transcended all classes. However, nail colour was exclusively the preserve of aristocrats. In China, this trend even became enshrined in law with transgressors daring to wear nail colour, were summarily executed in public. Quite literally, people died for fashion. 

As cosmetics grew in popularity, women began to become more extravagant in their use of cosmetics. Imported beauty products from as far away as China, Germany and Gaul were lavishly used by women in their quest for beauty. Excessive use of these costly products ultimately incited public controversy leading to the introduction of the Lex Oppia Law of 189 BC. The law curbed the use of cosmetics and over-adornment of women generally in public places Prior to the law's introduction, women had been becoming ever more competitive in keeping up appearances, even gambling away huge fortunes on the costly cosmetics. 

In the following interim period between the Roman era and the middle ages, use of cosmetics disappeared. The Dark Ages, as this era was termed saw only very limited use of make-up amongst restricted sectors of the public. An edict issued by the Church, denouncing all those wearing cosmetics as heathens and devil-worshippers, ensured that cosmetics suffered a rapid loss in popularity amongst the public. Overwhelmingly, the use of cosmetics during this era was associated with women of ill repute and actors for whom society had scant regard. 

Only much later, in the Elizabethan Era, did cosmetics become popular once again. Lead preparations were particularly favoured as women sought to lighten their skin. Mercury compounds, such as mercury sulphide, were applied to the lips for colour. 

After a brief resurgence in popularity, cosmetics only became popular again during the reign of another long-reigning monarch, Queen Victoria (1837-1901). As in the Elizabethan era, a pallid complexion was favoured over a tanned look. Mercifully, the pale look was attained through applying concoctions of lemon juice and vinegar as opposed to the more lethal lead preparations of the past. Overt applications of make-up were frowned upon, with lipstick and rouge being studiously avoided. Purchase of cosmetics was a somewhat furtive affair, with clients obtaining products from local chemists with concealed back door entrances. 

Only with the establishment of a cosmetic counter (London - 1909) where women could publicly try out cosmetics before purchase, buying and wearing of cosmetics gained acceptability. Today the sheer diversity of cosmetics products and the freedom to apply them sparingly or liberally is largely due the burgeoning of the cosmetics industry, spearheaded in the UK by Gordon Selfridge and the influence of Hollywood in the 1920s.

Mary Magdalene – Sacred or Sinner?

I wish if I could tell you clearly who Mary Magdalene was. She could have been Jesus' most celebrated female disciple only if numerous people hadn't put her secret relationship with Jesus as central theme of their artistic works. At different times, church, religious groups, painters and writers have been playing with her individuality. It made us curious enough to find out who she really was. Needless to say, credit goes to very limited and conflicting  literature found, written mostly after her death. 

Legend says that Mary Magdalene lived in a castle on the shores of the Sea of Galilee (in present day Israel). Unlike her siblings, Mary indulged herself into luxurious pleasures and became notorious for her extravagant lifestyle. Her sister, Martha persuaded her to listen to Jesus, who had already relieved some women from curse of evil spirits and diseases. Jesus visited Marry. She sat at the feet of Jesus and washed his feet with tears, thus Jesus cleansed her of seven demons (seven sins). The gospels (Matthew, Mark, Luke, & John) present Mary as a woman who witnessed Jesus’ crucifixion, and saw him alive three days later. After putting all Gospels collectively, I found Mary Magdalene to be a visionary leader. 

Unfortunately, early church leaders bundled Mary’s identity with a women whom Bible did not know. The idea of calling Magdalene a prostitute originated in the sixth century, when Pope Gregory I identified her woman who washed Jesus’ feet with her hair. Magdalene as prostitute was perpetuated by much Western form of arts, in which she is shown, having long red hair, while other women follow contemporary standards. Because, any retrieval of Magdalene as a saint could shakes up male church leadership, that's why Church called her prostitute, but could it have destroyed all evidences in attempt to rewrite history? 

Now question arises whether history been wrong for 2000 years or not. Is this true that Jesus and Magdalene were married? Author Dan Brown’s clever weaving of fact with fiction in his novel The Da Vinci Code convinced me that Jesus and Magdalene were really married and had a child. But is this romantic assertion supported by historical evidence, lets’ find out - 

• Discriminated depictions of other women and Mary in Meister des Marienlebens‘ crucifixion paintings show how he viewed her relationship with Jesus. 
• Mary's role as a Crucifixion witness was unusual because women at that time were not considered credible witnesses in legal proceedings. This shows Mary’s importance in Jesus’ life. 
• Gospel of Philip says that Jesus was used to kiss Mary, often. Other disciples were offended by it and expressed disapproval. Gospel of Mary describes tensions and jealousy between Magdalene and Peter. 
• The identity of "Mary" appearing as the main character in Gospel is sometimes perceived as companion of Jesus. Magdalene’s frequent appearance than other women in the canonical Gospels suggests role of grieving wife and widow. 

• The 13th-century Cistercian monk, Peter of Vaux de Cernay claimed that young Jesus was married to Mary Magdalene as bachelorhood was very rare for Jewish males of Jesus' time. 
• After the Crucifixion, she watched Jesus’ tomb. Others went away, but Mary stayed crying, which shows Jesus’ importance in her life. 

Jesus and Mary were married, but Christian text was a bit shy on romance and decided to sauce it up a little.

Even 2000 years after her death, Mary Magdalene’s real individuality would decide whether Jesus was a God or another human with ordinary desires. I hope, just like me, there are million people  out there who are hoping to get to know real Mary Magdalene. 

Those darkest hours of Indian democracy

When I turn pages of Newspapers in the morning and read how Indian government is overlooking common man’s demand on Jan Lokpal Bill, those days of Emergency catch my attention. Although it happened before my physical existence, yet my mother’s memories with emergency keep those 21-months of Political unrest alive. 

The dark clouds were ready to surround Indian democracy when opponents made allegations that Congress leader, Indira Gandhi had practiced electoral fraud to win the 1971 elections. On 12 June 1975, the Allahabad High Court also found the Prime Minister, Indira Gandhi guilty of charges, but she was cleared on more serious charges. Due to drought and 1973 oil crisis, economy was in bad shape. Bihar was standing up for a change in government through  strikes in labor, trade, student and government unions. The socialist J. P. Narayan and his supporters sought to transform Indian society. Protests led by Raj Narain and Morarji Desai flooded the streets of Delhi.

Fearing imminent danger to Congress's image, a letter for the president was drafted. India was preparing itself for a massive social and political changes when President Fakhruddin Ali Ahmed, upon advice by Indira Gandhi on 26 June 1975, declared a state of emergency under Article 352 (Constitution of India), suspending elections and civil liberties. 

With official declaration, Ms. Gandhi brought democracy to a grinding halt. Elections for the state and Parliament governments were postponed. Invoking article 352 (Indian Constitution), she had extraordinary powers to smash the civil liberties and political opposition. The Government misused police forces across country to arrest thousands of protesters and strike leaders. The Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh, along with some opposition political parties got barred.

News headlines proclaiming State of Emergency - Over 140,000 people had been arrested 

without trial during Emergency

In my mother’s words, Indian Emergency was a preplanned series of  rewriting the nation's laws. Indira Gandhi used the president to issue, "extraordinary laws", allowing her to rule by decree. Anti party ruling states like Gujrat and Tamil Nadu were hit hard with declaration of president's Rule, jailing thousands of opponents. The 42nd Amendment brought extensive changes to the spirit of Indian constitution. In face of massive political disorder, Indira had her younger son Sanjay Gandhi, a close political advisor who was concerned with issues of overpopulation. He initiated a birth control program, chiefly employing sterilization. Quotas were set up that eventually ended up with coercion of unwilling Indians. 

Large-scale illegal performance of laws shifted the country towards socialism. With destruction of the slum and low-income housing in Jama Masjid area, the entire country was in a state of shock. According to Amnesty International, 140,000 people had been arrested without trial during darkest hours of Emergency. Out of those, 40,000 had come from India's two percent Sikh minority. 

Any blackout doesn’t stand for so long. Networks were established between different political parties’ leaders in the jail for the coordination of the movement. Indira Gandhi called fresh elections, releasing all political prisoners and Emergency officially ended on March 23rd, 1977. A coalition of parties calling itself the Janata Party (People's Party), asked Indians to choose between “democracy and dictatorship.” The elections turned against Gandhi and with huge victory of Janata Party, Morarji Desai became the first non-Congress Prime Minister of India. 

Emergency rule lasted 21 months, but its legacy remains intensely controversial. Writer Rahi Masoom Raza and English novelist Sanjeev Tare shared in their literature what they went through during that politically turbulent time. Brutus, You!, a book by Chanakya Sen portrayed internal politics of Jawaharlal Nehru university, Delhi during Emergency. The 1985 Malayalam film Yathra showcased the human right violations during Emergency by the police. 

Even though it was endorsed by Vinoba Bhave, Mother Teresa, J. R. D. Tata and writer Khushwant Singh, but for entire nation Emergency was merely a nightmare, which left a long lasting scar on the face of Indian political system. 

Hitler - Dictator or exploded face of an Artist?

After Alexander, humanity did not witness existence of a man who could control almost entire world as per his wishes until Hitler came in picture. Interestingly, like Alexander, he influenced countless men with his magnetic leadership style, but unlike Hitler, Alexander would have never executed the mass murder of six million Jews for sure. How strange it seems that Hitler, whose political visions bought the world a war, once wanted to be an artist. 

From childhood, Hitler had strong desires to be an artist. Eight-year-old Hitler took singing lessons and even entertained thoughts of becoming a priest. It may sound hard to believe, but Hitler was once very emotional kid who often had to face opposition of his father against his artistic wishes. Being sensitive, death of his younger brother deeply affected him and he drastically changed from being confident student to a detached boy who often fought with his father and teachers. 

From 1905, Hitler lived in Vienna (Austria), worked as a casual laborer to eventually become a painter. Very few of us know that Hitler produced and sold hundreds of his paintings in streets of Vienna to earn living. In between all this, his attempts to get into Academy of Fine Arts (Vienna) were persistent. When Academy of Fine Arts, Vienna rejected his piece of work over and over, failure of an artist probably met notorious and murderous instincts.

A painting by Hitler - he produced and sold hundreds of paintings to earn living during 1908–1913.

We all know how World War I left Germany starving with Treaty of Versailles, which imposed heavy taxes on country. After joining Nazi Party, Hitler soon gained notoriety for his speeches against the Treaty of Versailles and Jews. Hitler’s hatred for Jews always remained unreasonable to me knowing that he had many close Jewish friends, during his stay in Austria.

It is interesting that he might even had a Jewish grandfather. Hitler’s grandmother was housekeeper in a Jewish family. She had no social contact with anybody, except family's 19-year-old son, Leopold Frankenberger, who possibly brought Hitler’s father to existence. Throughout his life, Hitler acted like a the most weird person in political senses. He always praised Christian culture, but in person, he criticized Christianity. He once even called it, fit for slaves only. 

Perhaps Hitler, who defined new altitude of dictatorship, was never fit for it. Deep down inside, he was an artist whose military judgment became increasingly erratic at the end of WW II. In simple words, Hitler may sound like a dictator of Nazi Germany, but possibly his persona was far smipler than that. Certainly, Hitler was ultimately responsible for deaths of 21 million civilians in war, however,  he remained as an untold artist in history pages. 

Remembering the Night unsinkable Titanic sank

When Titanic was launched in the presence of 100,000 onlookers, nobody could imagine how this ship of wonder would give the world scar of 1,514 deaths. The last word in comfort and luxury, Titanic carried 2,223 people, wealthiest and those who were seeking a new life in America. It’s been 100 years since RMS Titanic sank in the North Atlantic Ocean on her way to New York City, but her memory kept alive in countless books, songs, films and memorials. James Cameron's Titanic (1997), portraying the sinking of ship gave new dimension to works of art. 

Titanic was born with manufacturer White Star Line‘s vague vision of commissioning a new class of luxury. Titanic was built 269 meter long with breadth of 28.19 meter and height of 32 meter. Adding 900 to crew, ship could accommodate 3,339 people, 739 passengers in First-Class, 674 in Second Classes and 1,026 in Third Class. With an onboard gymnasium, swimming pool, libraries, squash court, Turkish bath and high-class restaurants, first-class passengers were to enjoy a floating hotel rather than a ship. 

On 10 April 1912, with 885 crew members and the most senior of the White Star Line's captains, the Titanic's maiden voyage began from Southampton, UK. The weather was windy, when Titanic weighed anchor for the last time. The first three days of the voyage passed without incident, yet Titanic received a series of warnings from other ships about drifting ice in the Grand Banks of Newfoundland area. Nonetheless, the ship continued to steam at full speed. 

On April 14th, at 11:40 pm, she spotted an iceberg. First Officer ordered the ship to be steered around, but the starboard side of Titanic struck the iceberg, creating a series of holes below the waterline. It soon became clear that the ship was doomed with its watertight compartments getting breached. Earlier regarded unsinkable, Titanic began sinking bow-first, with water spilling from compartment to compartment. Titanic was ill-prepared for such disaster. Due to outdated maritime safety regulations, she carried lifeboats for 1,178 people – one-third of total capacity. Inadequately trained crew and officers launched many lifeboats barely half-full.

Third-class passengers were largely left to fend for themselves in the ship filled with water. Over 90% men in Second Class were stayed aboard due to a women and children first protocol. Just before 2:20 am ship broke up and sank with over a thousand people still on board, breaking loose from the bow section. The remaining passengers and crew were plunged into lethally cold water with a temperature of only −2 °C. Many of those died within minutes from hypothermia, caused by Freezing Ocean.

Distress signals were sent by wireless, rockets and lamp, but none of the ships responded until Carpathia arrived on the scene at 4 am. Only 710 people survived the disaster while 1,514 people lost their lives. Carpathia on 18 April arrived at New York, greeted by 40,000 people waiting in heavy rain. Crowds gathered outside newspaper offices to see the latest reports on casualties, which took four next days to be compiled and released. For anybody, who heard about it, pain was irritable. Thomas Hardy's poem The Convergence of the Twain (1912) emerged from the disaster. Saved from the Titanic was released only 29 days after the ship sank, having actual survivor –Dorothy Gibson, the silent film actress. 

The largest ship at a time, as long as four city blocks, was believed to be too strong to sink. The unsinkable ship stayed beneath the Atlantic Ocean for 71 years till National Geographic helped an explorer go look for her in 1985. Many sad reminders of Titanic's passengers were found with suitcases, cups, and countless shoes. Over years, Titanic has been symbolizing the sad glory, perhaps we can collect piece of it from 12,415 feet sea depth, but reviving the smiling faces of people who drowned with Titanic is surely not achievable.

Why Greta Garbo adored loneliness?

As a critic, the Greta Garbo’s love for solitude always left me puzzled. No one can ever think of any other name that experienced such level of anonymity and loneness in history of world cinema, except Grabo. Despite being a superstar, from early days of her career, she refused to sign autographs, answered no fan mail, and gave very few interviews. She retired after appearing in only twenty-seven films, turning down opportunities to return to the screen, living a private life, saying no to publicity. 

Once designated as the most beautiful woman whoever lived by the Guinness Book of World Records, Garbo developed an acting technique that was ahead of time, setting her apart. You could see thought if she had to look at one person with jealousy or love, she didn't have to change her expression because you could see it in her eyes. I cannot forget her from Grand Hotel, saying, "I want to be alone, I just want to be alone" a theme that got linked to her public and private persona. With this prose, I am making an attempt to know what could possibly make this beautiful actress not celebrating stardom. 

Greta was born in Sweden, third and youngest child of a jam factory worker and a laborer. Raised in city's slum, her childhood was completely grey with her father scribbling figures on a newspaper and mother repairing ragged old clothes. For a sensitive girl, such evenings were unforgettable, filled with anxiety. As a child, Garbo preferred to play alone. Poverty forced her to begin her first job as a soap-lather girl in a barbershop at 15 years, right one year after her father’s death. 

Greta Garbo was once designated the most beautiful woman whoever lived by
the Guinness Book of World Records

After a lot of struggle, she began modeling hats for the store's catalogs. After advertising for women's clothing, she got first leading role in a Swedish movie. Her magnetism forced MGM to sign her for a contact, when vice-president of MGM was on a trip to Berlin. Garbo, at age twenty and unable to speak English, arrived in New York. 

Despite given top billing, for Garbo her second movie was a harrowing experience as on fourth day of production, she was informed about her sister’s death. Studio did not permit her to return to Sweden for the funeral. The remorse of not seeing her beloved sister for the last time left her agonizing. Garbo began to prohibit visitors from sets, preventing crew from watching her. Nevertheless, she went on to make eight more films and MGM had a new star. Publicized with the slogan "Garbo talks!” Anna Christie (1930) provided her first speaking film. 

Her on-screen erotic intensity with John Gilbert soon translated into an off-camera romance. No one knows why she declined Gilbert’s number of marriage proposal. Perhaps, marriage was coming in between her and solitude. Humiliated by the negative reviews of her last film in 1941, she did intend to retire. Although she refused to talk to friends throughout her life about her reasons for retiring, she told her friend how tired of Hollywood she was. There were many days when she had to force herself to go to the studio as she wanted to live another life. 

Garbo, with her innate need for solitude, always struggled with depression, and moodiness. She was known for taking long, daily walks by herself. In retirement, she walked the streets of New York City dressed casually maintaining her elusive mystique to the end. She never married, had no children, and as an adult, always lived alone. Recent biographers speculate that she was bisexual, or lesbian as Swedish actress Mimi Pollak, released sixty letters Garbo had written her. Many letters confessed Gardbo’s deep feelings for Pollak. Non acceptance of homosexuals might have pushed her to see no one, but herself. 

Greta died in 1990, aged 84, leaving her entire estate to niece. Her fear of strangers perpetuated the mystery and mystique that she projected both on screen and in real life. In spite of her efforts to avoid publicity, Garbo ironically became one of the most publicized women in the world. 

Ambitious tale of ambitious Alexander

For ages, many rural admired and imitated his leadership style. King Pompey (Rome) even adopted his haircut as a sign of greatness, and searched his 260-year-old cloak. Stretching his kingdom from Ionian Sea to the Himalayas, he created the largest empire of the ancient world. Greece enjoyed a period of prosperity and international trade during his existence. Many inner states of Greece revolted against him over and over, but these were his charismatic leadership skills that saved Greece from falling apart. Yes, I am talking about Alexender the great, a strong and handsome commander with one eye dark as the night and one blue as the sky. 

Out of King Philips‘eight wives, Olympias gave birth to Alexander who showed his heroic instincts with controlling a stubborn horse at age of 10. When Alexander succeeded Macedonia at 20, he had to find a kingdom, big enough for his ambitions. Against hairy Macedonian kings, Alexander went clean-shaven, because he was never meant to be a forgettable ruler. His fairness passed into ruddiness on his face and chest. 

Before crossing to Asia, he conquered the entire Persian Empire. Persian king Darius III fled the battle and left his fabulous treasure behind. When Jerusalem opened its gates in surrender, he headed to Egypt. He marched into Mesopotamia (now Iraq) and captured Babylon. During his world victory tour, Alexander founded a series of cities, including Alexandria (Egypt) and modern Kandahar in Afghanistan.

Stretching his kingdom from Ionian Sea to Himalayas, Alexander created the largest empire of ancient world

When his eagerness to conquer the world with winning India caught fire, Eastern boundaries of his kingdom started weakening in his absence. After making King Porus from Punjab an ally, Alexnder moved further to Indian boundaries. In an attempt to seize fort of Massaga, Alexander got wounded sincerely in the ankle. Using the incorrect maps of world, Alexander thought that the world ended mere 600 miles away from the edge of India. Beyond his knowledge; there was a prosperous Nanda Empire of Magadha in the east. He tried to persuade his army to march further, but soldiers longed to see their homeland, refused to fight against 6000 elephant man army. 

Despite arriving with his troops at the river Ganges, he decided to return home. During travelling, his closest friend and possible homosexual lover, Hephaestion, died of illness. His death devastated Alexander and he also left this world in 323 BC after downing a large bowl of unmixed wine in Babylon. Opposition and rivalry soon started afflicting his territory. Both son Alexander IV and half-brother Philip III were murdered after his death. A series of civil wars tore his great empire apart. 

Although in Persian literature, Alexander is accused of destroying temples and burning the sacred texts, yet in India and Pakistan, he is paid respect with being called – Sikandar (A rising young talent). Died at age of 32, Alexander left his dream of making the world his kingdom. His Sky touching ambitions, beyond definition make Alexander classical hero in Greek and non-Greek cultures for eternity.